Damp, mold and condensation

Mold, damp and window condensation in San Francisco: causes, fixes and who pays

Mold in a San Francisco apartment nearly always traces back to one of three things: condensation on cold glass and outside walls, a bathroom that never dries out, or water getting in from outside. Fix the moisture, then clean small patches with soap and water. Visible mold can make a California rental substandard; the landlord repairs building causes once told, and the renter handles ventilation and daily drying.

  • Updated
  • 14 min read
  • Checked against 17 public sources

The short version

  • On cold mornings, warm and damp indoor air turns to water on the coldest surfaces: the glass, outside corners and closet walls.
  • Find the moisture before you scrub. Mold bleached or painted over without fixing the source is likely to grow back, California's health department says.
  • EPA says a patch under about 10 square feet is usually a do-it-yourself cleanup. Bigger areas, or mold that keeps returning, point to the building.
  • Visible mold can make a California rental substandard, and the landlord's repair duty starts with notice. Tell them in writing and keep a copy.
  • In San Francisco, mold goes to the health department through 311; leaks, broken fans and other building problems go to Building Inspection.

It usually starts on the window. On a cold January morning water runs down the inside of the glass and pools on the sill. By March there is a gray-black line along the bottom of the frame and a smell in the closet that no laundry run gets out. Nothing is leaking. The apartment is making its own water.

Here is where the damp comes from, what fixes each cause and who pays when you rent. Water coming through a ceiling right now? Read the first 48 hours after a leak.

Start with what you see

Tap what you're seeing. Each answer gives the usual cause, the fix that lasts, and who usually pays under the California rules below. If you own the place and live in it, that last part is you.

What are you seeing?

Why the west side of the city runs damp

Ask anyone who has rented in the Outer Sunset. San Francisco Planning's history of the neighborhood mentions its foggy climate and sandy soil, and most of its houses went up between 1925 and 1950: stucco-clad, packed onto 25-foot lots, garage below and living space above. The Richmond, across Golden Gate Park, sits on the same stretch of ocean.

The physics is plain. Warm air holds more water than cold air. A shower, a pot of pasta, a rack of laundry and two people asleep behind a closed door all add water to the room, and when that air touches a surface colder than its dew point, the water comes out as droplets. In winter the coldest surfaces are the glass, the outside corners and the backs of closets, so that is where the water, then the mold, appears.

Section through an outside wall and its window: warm, damp air from a shower, a pot and a laundry rack drifts to the cold single-pane glass, where it beads into droplets that run down to the sill, and to the cold corner where the outside wall meets the ceiling Warm, damp air Cold, foggy air Below dew point Water runs down Black specks Cold corner Cold glass
Warm room air carries water vapor to the cold glass and the cold corner of an outside wall. Where a surface is colder than the air's dew point, the vapor turns to droplets that run down to the sill.

30-50%

The indoor relative humidity EPA calls ideal. Stay below 60 percent, and dry condensation on windows or walls quickly. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

Fresh air helps most on dry days. On a clear afternoon, windows open on two sides of the flat swap wet air for drier air; on a dripping foggy morning the incoming air is nearly as wet as what you're removing, and a dehumidifier does more. A small hygrometer in the worst room settles it.

Cutaway of a 1930s Sunset-style stucco house in the fog, showing where damp appears: the front bay window, the cold top corner of the front room, a hazy double-pane window, the bathroom ceiling around the fan, the wall behind a bed, the back closet and the base of the walls in the street-level room
Where damp shows up in a 1930s Sunset-style house. Tap a number.
  1. Front window. Cold glass, the first place condensation forms. More
  2. Bathroom ceiling. Steam settles here when the fan is weak, missing or never ducted outside. More
  3. Behind the bed. An outside wall with furniture pressed against it stays cold and damp. More
  4. Back closet. Cold wall, no air moving: the musty smell starts here. More
  5. Top corner. The coldest spot in the room, or a roof leak. The weather tells you which. More
  6. Garage-level room. Ground moisture shows up at the base of the walls. More
  7. Fogged double pane. Haze between the panes means a failed seal. More

Condensation, or a leak?

On a wall the two look alike and need opposite fixes, so sort them out before you scrub. Timing is the tell.

Usually condensation

  • Appears on cold mornings, dries by afternoon
  • Worst on glass, outside corners and closet backs
  • Eases with fans, heat and a dehumidifier
  • Follows the household's habits, not the weather

Usually a leak

  • Grows after rain, or stays wet in dry weather
  • Leaves brown tide lines at the edge of the stain
  • Shows up on inside walls, under sinks, below bathrooms
  • Comes back whatever the humidity

Pencil a line at the edge of any stain and look again after the next storm. A line that moves means a leak, and that record helps whoever comes to fix it.

Bathroom ceilings: the fan is the fix

Spots over the shower show where the steam goes. Interior bathrooms with no window are common in flats and apartment buildings, and a window nobody opens in January is not much better. California lists the lack, or improper operation, of required ventilating equipment as a substandard condition in Health and Safety Code 17920.3.

For new homes, California's green building code, in the 2025 edition in force since January 1, 2026, asks for each bathroom fan to be ENERGY STAR rated, ducted outside and run by a humidity control adjustable between 50 and 80 percent (CALGreen 4.506.1). It is a good spec for an old building too: a fan wired to the light stops when you leave, with the room still full of steam.

Two checks before anyone blames the tenant. Where does the duct end? A fan blowing into the attic or between floors just moves the water. And does it pull? Hold a square of toilet paper to the grille with the fan on; if it doesn't cling, the fan or duct is failing.

Then clean the spots with soap and water, let the ceiling dry and repaint. California's health department tells tenants to skip bleach, ammonia and vinegar, which can trigger asthma, and EPA says never to paint over mold. A ceiling that must be cut out is drywall and plaster repair; the finish is interior painting.

Running a drier apartment

Most of the fix is habit, and none of it needs a contractor or the landlord's permission:

  • Run the bathroom fan or open the window for every shower, then squeegee the glass and tile, as the state health department advises.
  • Cook with lids on and the range hood running, if it vents outdoors.
  • Dry laundry in a dryer vented outside, never on a rack in a closed bedroom.
  • Keep beds and dressers a few inches off outside walls, and leave closet doors on those walls ajar.
  • Heat the whole flat a little rather than one room a lot. A shut, cold back bedroom is where condensation settles.

Choosing a dehumidifier for an apartment

In a fog-belt flat or a garage-level room, a dehumidifier earns its floor space. ENERGY STAR sizes them by how damp the space is, in pints removed per day:

ENERGY STAR's dehumidifier sizing, in pints per day
How the space feelsRoom under 2,000 sq ftLarger space
Slightly to moderately damp: musty at times, 50 to 75 percent humidity20-3030+
Very damp: smells damp, damp spots on walls and floors, 75 to 90 percent25-4040+
Wet: walls or floor sweat, or laundry dries indoors, 90 to 100 percent30-5050+

Close that room's doors and windows while it runs, keep it clear of walls and furniture, and use a drain hose if a drain is close. ENERGY STAR notes that capacity ratings have changed, so compare new models with new models.

Cleaning mold yourself, and when to stop

EPA's rule of thumb: a moldy area under about 10 square feet, roughly 3 feet by 3, is usually a do-it-yourself job. Scrub hard surfaces with soap and water, dry them completely, and consider an N-95 respirator. Moldy ceiling tiles and carpet may have to go. Anything bigger, or back after a careful cleanup, is a building problem; EPA suggests hiring someone experienced with mold and checking references.

Who pays: what California law says

General information, not legal advice. Building problems are the owner's, household habits the renter's, and three sections draw the line.

Under Civil Code 1941.7, the landlord's duty to repair mold starts only once the landlord has notice, and not when the tenant is violating Civil Code 1941.2, which includes keeping the unit clean and properly using its plumbing, gas and electrical fixtures. The state's mold booklet for renters gives the plain example: a code officer may find that mold came from a tenant not using the bathroom ventilation.

Usually the owner's side

  • Roofing, gutters, outside walls and windows that let water in
  • Plumbing leaks in walls, ceilings and floors
  • A required bath fan that is missing, broken or vented into the building
  • Broken glass, rotten sills, sash that won't open
  • Drainage that sends water at the foundation

Usually the renter's side

  • Fans and windows while showering and cooking
  • Wiping condensation off glass and sills
  • Cleaning small surface mold with soap and water
  • Not drying laundry in a closed room
  • Reporting leaks, damp and mold promptly, in writing

Getting it fixed in San Francisco

  1. Photograph it, with dates

    The mold, the window, the fan grille, any stain, each with the date you first saw it.

  2. Tell the landlord in writing

    What, where, since when, and what you think causes it. The repair duty starts with notice, so keep a copy.

  3. Make access easy

    The landlord may enter to repair mold with the notice California's entry law requires. Answer quickly.

  4. If nothing happens, call 311

    SF.gov sends mold and indoor air quality complaints to the Department of Public Health's Environmental Health branch through 311, or (415) 701-2311 from outside the city. Leaks and broken fans can go to Building Inspection, online or through 311.

Looking at a new place? Landlords must give prospective tenants the state's mold booklet before signing (Health and Safety Code 26148, in force since January 2022, CDPH says) and disclose in writing known mold that poses a health threat (26147). At a viewing, look for what the booklet flags: no working bath fan or opening window, a dryer with no outside vent.

Fog between the panes

Section through the edge of a double-pane window, twice: with the edge seal intact the gap between the panes stays dry; with the seal cracked, damp air gets in and fog and droplets form on the glass inside the gap, out of reach. The sun heating the gap every day, thermal pumping, is what cracks the seal Seal intact Seal failed Thermal pumping Glass Sealed gap Spacer anddesiccant Edge seal Fogged gapout of reach Cracked seal Damp air in
A double-pane window is two sheets of glass sealed at the edge. When the seal cracks, damp air gets into the gap and condenses where no cloth can reach.

Haze you can't wipe off from either side means the seal on a double-pane unit has failed. InterNACHI, the home inspectors' association, blames thermal pumping: sun heats the gas between the panes, it swells and shrinks every day, and the seal cracks. A defogging service clears the moisture but leaves the seal broken.

The usual repair is a new sealed glass unit in the same frame. In a rental, that is the owner's job. Replacing whole windows in San Francisco raises permit questions, covered on the window replacement page.

Questions people ask

Is mold in my apartment dangerous?

California's health department says water damage, dampness, visible mold or a moldy smell in a home is unhealthy, whatever the type of mold. The risks it lists include developing asthma, asthma attacks, respiratory infections, allergic rhinitis, wheeze and cough, and children are more sensitive than adults. Anyone with symptoms should see a doctor; the moisture is the thing to fix.

Who is responsible for mold in a California rental?

Generally the landlord repairs building causes, such as leaks, broken windows, failed waterproofing and missing required fans, once on notice. The tenant keeps the unit clean, uses the ventilation and reports problems. Under Civil Code 1941.7 and 1941.2, the repair duty may not arise if the tenant's own violation of those duties contributed to the mold. General information, not legal advice.

How do I stop condensation on the inside of my windows?

Lower the moisture and warm the glass. Run bathroom and kitchen fans, keep lids on pots, dry laundry in a vented dryer, and aim for the 30 to 50 percent indoor humidity EPA suggests. Open the curtains in the morning and wipe the sill dry. If single glass still streams every morning, a storm panel or new sash is the lasting fix.

What size dehumidifier do I need for an apartment?

ENERGY STAR sizes them by dampness. For a room under 2,000 square feet that feels slightly to moderately damp, it suggests 20 to 30 pints per day; very damp, 25 to 40; wet, with sweating walls or laundry drying indoors, 30 to 50. Run it with the room closed up and a drain hose if you can.

How do I report mold in a San Francisco rental?

Tell the landlord in writing first and keep a copy. If nothing happens in a reasonable time, call 311, or (415) 701-2311 from outside the city; SF.gov routes mold to the Department of Public Health's Environmental Health branch. Leaks, broken fans and other building conditions can go to the Department of Building Inspection.

Pros who take this work

Where these facts come from

Checked against these public pages in October 2026. Programs and rules change; the agency's own page is the final word. This guide is general information, not legal or engineering advice.

  1. Health and Safety Code § 17920.3 (substandard buildings) California Legislative Information
  2. Civil Code § 1941.7 (mold: notice and entry) California Legislative Information
  3. Civil Code § 1941.2 (tenant obligations) California Legislative Information
  4. Civil Code § 1941.1 (untenantable dwellings) California Legislative Information
  5. Health and Safety Code § 26148 (mold booklet for prospective tenants) California Legislative Information
  6. A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
  7. Statement on Building Dampness, Mold, and Health California Department of Public Health
  8. Information on Dampness and Mold for Renters in California California Department of Public Health
  9. Dampness, Mold, and Asthma (tenant fact sheet) California Department of Public Health
  10. Report a health nuisance or hazards City and County of San Francisco
  11. Report a building problem San Francisco Department of Building Inspection
  12. Dehumidifiers ENERGY STAR
  13. Condensation in Double-Paned Windows InterNACHI
  14. Lead-Safe Renovations for DIYers U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
  15. Sunset District Residential Builders, 1925-1950: Historic Context Statement San Francisco Planning Department
  16. 2025 California Green Building Standards Code, Chapter 4 (section 4.506.1) International Code Council
  17. 2025 CalGreen Residential Mandatory Measures Checklist (section 4.506.1 text) City of Dublin Building and Safety Division

Your turn

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